Bold claim: cilantro divides kitchens the world over, and Lidia Bastianich is proof that personal taste can fuel a culinary standstill. Lidia Bastianich is a towering figure in Italian American cuisine. She’s not only a master chef but also a prolific author, a familiar face on TV, and a partner at New York City’s Eataly—an extraordinary emporium of Italian foods and ingredients. Yet her curiosity isn’t limited to Italy; she has traveled widely and found joy in flavors from Asia and Mexico. Still, despite craving Mexican street tacos or traditional moles, she refuses to eat cilantro.
In an interview with In Kansas City, Bastianich explained, “There is something about cilantro that makes me feel like I have a mouthful of soap when I taste it. It must be in my genes.” She’s far from alone in this sentiment. Cilantro is famously polarizing: loved by some, reviled by others who compare its taste to soap. This controversy isn’t new—Julia Child reportedly disliked cilantro, and Ina Garten isn’t a fan either. Bastianich’s belief that her aversion is genetic isn’t an outlandish claim.
Scientists have explored why some people perceive cilantro as soapy. For a subset of tasters, certain genetic variants alter how we smell or taste compounds in cilantro, creating an unpleasant soapy note. Interestingly, cuisines that rely heavily on cilantro, such as Mexican and Indian traditions, tend to have fewer people with this genetic predisposition, though it still appears across populations.
What can you use instead of cilantro if you don’t enjoy it?
Some cooks insist cilantro is essential for salsa and as a garnish on many Mexican dishes. If you’re among the cilantro-averse, there are flavorful substitutes worth trying. Culantro, a herb often compared to cilantro but with a stronger, citrusy profile, can mimic some of cilantro’s brightness without the same flavor notes. Parsley provides a clean, fresh baseline, while basil can add a sunny herbal lift in many recipes. A squeeze of fresh lime juice brings acidity and brightness that cilantro would normally contribute. Fresh dill or mint can offer different green accents, and even peppery arugula can add a lively herbal kick.
You can also layer flavors by combining herbs to create a nuanced finish. Some cilantro enthusiasts will argue there’s no true substitute, but adventurous cooks often discover delightful, unexpected results by experimenting with alternatives. The key is to balance brightness, contrast, and aroma to suit the dish and your palate.
